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Pros / The simmer burner has a remarkably low 200 Btu output, so it’s good for delicate melting and warming.

Cons / This is an expensive cooktop.

 Verdict / The Thermador Masterpiece SGSX365FS is an exceptional gas cooktop. It has a lot to offer, but that excellence comes with a hefty price tag.

Thermador is the first manufacturer to bring cooktops and wall ovens to the U.S. and has been innovating its gas cooktops for decades. In fact, Julia Child used a Thermador. The 36-inch Thermador Masterpiece SGSX365FS gives you a lot of control over temperature. It also has an unusual burner shape – the burner and flames are both star-shape, which Thermador says assists in heat distribution.

The front left burner reaches 9,100 Btu but can also drop to an extremely low 200 Btu to melt delicate foods like butter or simmer finicky cream sauces without using a double boiler. The primary center burner reaches 18,000 Btu and drops to 15,000 Btu. This cooktop has a second 9,100 burner and two 12,000 Btu burners to round out the set.

The control panel is centered at the front and has sturdy metal knobs that light up when the burner is on. Also, the blue light around the knobs changes in intensity when you go from the melt setting up to a normal temperature. This cooktop doesn’t have a hot surface indicator, so the knob lights are the only warning that the burners are on.

Since the SGSX365FS has continuous grates, you can slide pans across its surface – a great safety feature when you need to move heavy pots and pans filled with hot food. In addition, the grates fit large and unusually shaped pots and pans. The grates, coupled with Thermador’s star burners, give the cooktop an unconventional and attractive appearance. You can pull the grates apart to clean them in the dishwasher, and the control knobs are also dishwasher-safe.

Like other high-end cooktops, the Masterpiece SGSX365FS has automatic reignition, and the ignition system strikes individual burners rather than lighting all of them at once. Also, you can convert it to a liquid propane cooktop, but you need to buy Thermador’s LP conversion kit.

This model doesn’t come with a griddle. However, you can buy one, as well as a wok, from Thermador. Most gas cooktops come with one-year warranties, but Thermador covers this model for two years.

The Thermador Masterpiece SGSX365FS is a feature-rich and well-designed gas cooktop, but it comes with a hefty price tag. If your budget can’t accommodate it, try the less expensive Thor Kitchen Professional HRT3618U.

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