The phrase "Now you're cooking with gas!" became popular in the early 1940s as Americans heard radio ads extolling the benefits of gas-fueled stoves that replaced the old-fashioned and labor intensive wood-burning variety.

With the Kenmore Elite 32623, you really are cooking with gas using four cooktop burners and three sturdy iron grates that cover the entire top of this slide-in range. People who favor cooking with gas insist it gives them greater control over the temperatures and cooking process, and this slide-in range can certainly offer that.

One burner offers dual ring capabilities, which means you can raise the heat level quickly, which is helpful when there are many hungry mouths to feed. You also can reduce the heat dramatically if you need to melt butter or make a cream sauce that needs low heat to avoid curdling.

The oven is not extraordinarily large at 4.5 cubic feet, but it is sizeable enough to feed most households easily. You can arrange the three oven racks on the four rack slots in various ways to accommodate nearly any type of bakeware. One rack permits you to remove half of it so that a taller pan can stand on the rack below. Meanwhile, you can use the remaining half to bake smaller items. This is a helpful feature, although it's unfortunate that there are only four oven rack slots since the top-rated slide-in ranges offer seven.

The convection heat circulates easily throughout the oven and provides even cooking. The heating element is located beneath the oven floor, so you never have to fiddle around cleaning an in-oven burner, which truly is a chore.

This oven is equipped with a temperature probe, which is useful for ensuring that different cuts of meat are cooked to the correct internal temperatures.

You also get an oven and control panel lock, which keeps young children from danger, and an automatic shut off feature that kicks in after 12 hours. You can override that if you want to use the oven's Sabbath mode. This keeps food in the oven warm until you choose to turn the appliance off, which presents a safe option for anyone who observes Jewish dietary laws.

You can clean the oven on this slide-in range with its self-cleaning function and program it to operate for different levels of cleaning. For light cleaning, two hours is sufficient, while the regular cleaning cycle runs for three hours. However, if your oven needs a thorough cleansing, you can program the cleaning cycle to run for four hours.

Once the oven's self-cleaning cycle is done, you then simply wipe up a small amount of ash left from the debris that has burned away. You also can program the oven with a delayed self-cleaning function so it does the work while you are gone.

The warranty you get with this slide-in range is standard for the industry: one year of coverage for parts that may be defective or become damaged during regular home use and one year for labor to repair or replace the parts. If you need help, you can call or email the company or refer to the online manual. Unfortunately, there is no live chat and you don't get video guides.

Durable iron grates over gas burners give the Kenmore Elite 32623 slide-in range the equipment preferred by many cooks who take their culinary skills seriously or who simply want to get a hot meal on the table fast for the family. The oven is reasonably large, you get a flexible rack that can make room for taller cookware and you also get three cleaning cycles to keep your oven at its best.

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