Pros / This gas slide-in range comes with a griddle and built-in heating area to use it, as well as a grate area that accommodates a round-bottomed wok.

Cons / Gas grates are harder to clean and, to some people, look less attractive than ceramic electric burners.

 Verdict / The Samsung NX58K9500WG/AA gives you the fine-adjustment capabilities of cooking with gas and provides a central griddle area, as well as a good-sized oven.

The versatile Samsung NX58K9500WG/AA slide-in range is great for serious cooks. (If you’d like a more basic slide-in gas-powered range, look at the Frigidaire FFGS3026TW.) The five-burner gas stovetop gives you fine control over heat intensity. The burners provide different maximum power levels, ranging from 700 to 18,000 Btus, so you can bring water to a rolling boil quickly on one burner while letting a tricky hollandaise sauce simmer on another. Indicators on the burner grates help you position your pan to get the precise heat level you want.

The cooktop gives you something other slide-in ranges don’t: a special grate designed solely for using a round-bottom wok. If you love Asian food and prepare it often, this is a space- and time-saver, since you can have other foods cooking on the remaining burners while you prepare a special dish in a piping-hot wok.

An oval heating area at the center of the stovetop grates accommodates extra-large pots and pans. The stove comes with a cast-iron accessory that you can place on top of the heating oval. One side has a flat griddle for pancakes and bacon. Flip it over for a cook surface with grill-like ridges for making those appealing sear marks on meat and sandwich bread. Knobs control the flame levels for the gas cooktop.

This Samsung slide-in gas range, which comes in a dark stainless steel color, provides a 5.8-cubic-foot convection oven that circulates hot air in a consistent flow so you get even baking or roasting. The oven’s built-in temperature probe lets you check the internal temperature of foods, especially meats, to ensure food safety.

The range comes with three oven racks and has seven rack positions for precision heating, as well as an oven timer and a child safety lock. A Sabbath mode lets cooks who observe Jewish dietary laws keep food for hot extended periods. The oven’s delayed timer is helpful for those who want the oven to start baking, roasting or just heating up at a time that suits their schedule, and the built-in warming drawer lets you keep food at an optimal temperature without overcooking it.

The oven features a digital display with pushbutton controls. The display provides systematic instructions for each step of programming the oven.

Samsung recommends that you do not use chemical cleaners, or cleaners of any type, on this oven. Instead, its self-cleaning cycle uses heat to burn away debris. After the cleaning cycle runs and the oven cools, you can use regular soap and water to wipe away any ash that might remain.

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